Florida Keys: Enjoy snorkeling, sailing, sunsets
 

         We were in the middle of a weeklong live-aboard sailing course on a Hunter 49 out of Key West, and our captain thought we needed a break from all the sail trimming and navigation techniques we’d been learning.

         So she handed out masks, snorkels and fins and pointed the five of us toward a reef that was right below the surface of the transparent turquoise water.

         My fellow sailing students grabbed the equipment and quickly plunged in to escape the July heat. But I’d never been snorkeling before, and was nearsighted without my glasses, so I was tentative.

         I slowly dog paddled out to the reef, and then had to squint and practically stick my face in the coral to see. But I immediately became entranced watching the multi-colored parrotfish and striped sergeant majors swimming around the ridged and fluted coral heads.

          Like the rest of the reef creatures I floated and rocked with the gentle sway of the currents. When the reef-chewing parrotfish dropped sand I noticed the grains fell in a slow, shimmering curtain in the sunlit water, glinting as if gold dust.

          That evening our group went to Mallory Square for the sunset festivities, and we all stood transfixed by the vivid sunset and a kilted bagpiper playing “Amazing Grace.” Then we hit Sloppy Joe’s, and Captain Tony’s Saloon, old Earnest Hemingway haunts, for frozen Margaritas. What a perfect day!

          After completing the sailing course I drove my rental car up the Overseas Highway all the way to Key Largo and back in one day, frustrated because I couldn’t stop at all the Keys attractions and still make my flight home the next day.

          That was 15 years ago, and I’ve never fully recovered. There’s something about the color of the water in the Florida Keys, diversity of the flora and fauna, eccentric character of full-time residents, charm of old-time Florida attractions and diners, and allure of luxurious resorts.  

          So all I can do is return to the Conch Republic as often as possible and continue to explore. I tend to visit during the warmer months when the prices are better, just remembering to drink plenty of fluids so I won’t overheat. And I’ve learned to rely on mile markers to find attractions and restaurants along the Overseas Highway vs. the street address.

          Now I have contacts I’ve made it my hobby to check out various Keys reefs, including those in John Pennecamp Coral Reef State Park and Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary. Several years ago I did one of the check out dives for my scuba diving certification at John Pennecamp, and was so inspired by the reefs that I returned several months later to dive there again.  

          Among of the best bases I’ve found for my Keys explorations is Cheeca Lodge & Spa on Islamorada, which is centrally located on the island chain. The lodge is basically self-contained for days you want to relax by swimming, kayaking, fishing, snorkeling, diving, wind surfing, sailing and/or taking an eco-tour boat ride.

          During one of my most recent Keys trips I took a refresher sailing lesson on a small catamaran from Capt. Elizabeth Jolin, head of Cheeca Watersports. Because of the calm, shallow waters the Keys are famous for, it was like sailing on a lake with a light, steady wind.

          Jolin is an excellent coach, so I soon began feeling more confident in my sailing skills, even though it had been several years since I’d sailed.

          Nearby the lodge are several wildlife attractions I enjoy visiting. The Theater of the Sea and the Dolphin Research Institute both offer dolphin interactions. Feeding the tarpon at Robbie’s Marina before a scrumptious casual lunch or dinner at the Hungry Tarpon is always a pleasure.

          On days I feel like exploring the Keys it’s a quick drive from Cheeca Lodge north to Key Largo or south to Key West. Not too far south of Cheeca Lodge is one of my favorite places to swim, Bahia Honda State Park. The jeweled waters are some of the most vibrant I’ve seen, reminding me a bit of Bimini.

           Farther south is the National Key Deer Refuge on Big Pine Key. The darling Key deer, a tiny subspecies of white-tailed deer, are so adorable that I don’t mind driving slowly to protect them. Please don’t feed the deer as it makes them more prone to run out on the Overseas Highway.

          I always try to get to Key West when I’m in the Keys as I never tire of exploring it. Although it’s a supremely walkable town, it’s a good idea to take a trolley, train or pedicab tour to get an overview.

           Geckos roam the tropical landscaping of the tin-roofed, gingerbread conch houses, and the Ernest Hemingway’s house and courtyard is home to numerous six-toed cats. Then there’s the lighthouse, the Pirate Soul Museum, the aquarium. Really, the list of things to do and see is endless.

            Recently a friend insisted we go to see singer songwriter Michael McCloud perform at the Schooner Wharf Bar, where he’s been a fixture for years. I was so impressed by his earthy lyrics and voice I bought his $10 greatest hits CD on the spot and have been listening to it ever since.

            As McCloud sings I’m likely to stay prone to “moments of weakness” that lure me down to the Keys “again and again.”