Puerto Vallarta warms winter guests
Photos and text by Kathy Hagood

Those who visit Puerto Vallarta, which is set in the foothills of the Sierra Madre on the Pacific Coast of Mexico, often return to the sunny winter escape.

That’s because like a favorite restaurant the picturesque destination boasting 340 days of sunshine a year is both delightful and consistent with a menu of activities so varied you could never grow tired of it.

Unlike many Mexican tourist destinations, which were targeted for development early on as resort areas, Puerto Vallarta offers historic atmosphere as well as requisite modern day comforts and world class dining.

It retains the quaint charm of its cobblestone streets and white stucco and red tile roofed colonial buildings as well as the beauty of its signature landmark Our Lady of Guadalupe Church known for its crown-topped bell tower.

Puerto Vallarta was a sleepy fishing village until it was discovered in 1964 when the press followed Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton’s scandalous romance while he was there filming Tennessee Williams's "Night of the Iguana."

Captivated by the long white sand beaches along Banderas Bay, Mexico’s largest deepwater bay with 40 miles of coast, and the mountains rolling down to the sea, the town became an instant hit with international travelers and now attracts more than two million visitors each year.

Visitors will find a wide range of accommodations, from luxury boutique hotels like the adults-only Hacienda San Angel in the center of the city, to the newest upscale family resorts, such as Villa del Palmar Flamingos, on the beach minutes away from the city in Neuvo Vallarta.

Shoppers can visit the unique boutiques and galleries along the city’s streets, tour the stalls in the clean and well-lit two-story municipal market, visit the outdoor market on the Rio Cuale Island between its two bridges and check out the wares of vendors along the Malecon, the town’s lengthy seaside boardwalk.

Quality products of Mexico, including sterling jewelry with natural stones, natural fiber clothing, quality woven hats as well as tourist favorites from T-shirts to other items emblazoned “Puerto Vallarta” are on sale. So are the colorful arts and crafts of the Huichol Indians.

The Huichol (pronounced Wettchol), or “healers,” continue to practice their native religion and integrate its spiritual symbols into their artwork, which includes yarn paintings, beadwork and textiles. The vibrant colors and creative designs of their pieces are sometimes peyote inspired.

Shoppers will want to bargain with street vendors to get better prices as the quoted price is marked up in anticipation of the game, and should even demonstrate a bit of hesitation to get a better price in the galleries and other shops in town.

“If you shop wisely Puerto Vallarta offers some of the best deals in Mexico,” said Elizabeth Triton of San Diego, Calif., who has traveled widely in the country.

Good restaurants and coffee shops are in abundant supply and Puerto Vallarta is known for its excellent seafood. Excellent restaurants include Arrayan, Lox Xitomates, La Dolce Vita, Mezzalun, Tsunami Sushi Bar and the Red Cabbage Cafe.

Nightlife includes dancing in local discos like El Zoo, listening to traditional mariachi bands, joining a fiesta or taking a night excursion to Las Caletas, director John Huston’s former jungle hideaway. The Malecon promenade tends to draw fun crowds and is great for people watching.

Because of the small-town atmosphere natives and visitors tend to be courteous and welcoming.

“Puerto Vallarta is one of the friendliest places I’ve ever visited, which is one of the things that draws me back here,” Triton said.

Puerto Vallarta also offers diverse land, sea and air outdoor adventures from hiking in the Sierra Madres and horseback riding on the beach to whale watching and swimming with dolphins. There’s scuba diving, snorkeling, kayaking, canoeing, sailing and four wheeling.

The area features numerous tour operators that make such excursions simple, enjoyable and safe. Vallarta Adventures is considered one of the best operators in the area, featuring Disney-level service and cleanliness.

For those who aren’t too afraid of heights and want an experience they can’t get even close to in Florida, a Vallarta Adventures canopy tour in the Sierra Madre semi-desert rainforest shouldn’t be missed. The hour ride out to the tour site in a jeep is part of the pleasure as it gives a taste of rural Mexico with its lovely small villages and rolling terrain.

Then there’s suiting up in a harness, helmet and gloves and listening to a safety briefing before taking a short hike to the first zip line. A patient staff member hooks your pulley up and then zip, zip, zip you’re flying 80 feet above the forest floor, whizzing by orchids and bromeliads to the next tree stand.

“What an amazing adventure,” said Brad Boquet, a firefighter from Madison, Wisc.

But it doesn’t take the bravado of a burley firefighter to take on the canopy. His diminutive wife, Karna, also found the excursion a thrill.

“I was a little concerned at first, but they take so many safety precautions and it’s obvious the equipment is kept in new condition,” Karna Boquet said.

Like Puerto Vallarta in general, the canopy tour is thrilling, yet reassuring, something you’ll be glad you did and that you just might want to do again.